'79-'93 FOX Mustang Under-dash ClutchTamer Install Guide...

Pre-Installation Requirements...
IMPORTANT- you must have a clutch pedal stop in place! A very important part of getting consistent launches is to have in place a properly adjusted clutch pedal stop. It's function is to insure that the slipper's rod is always pulled out exactly the same amount every time the car is staged, so that it can consistently delay the clutch's lockup.

Step 1- Installing the Clutch Pedal Bracket...
Our clutch pedal brackets are designed to install by simply slipping them over your pedal's "arm", secured to the pedal by simple pinch bolts. This allows you to easily slide the bracket up/down the pedal for proper positioning.
...place the upper edge of the pedal bracket appx 4-3/8" above the rubber pedal pad.
...tighten the pinch bolt to secure the bracket's position on the pedal (requires a 7/16" wrench).

Step 2- Remove Screws Securing Hood Release to Column Bracket...
...simply remove the screws and let the hood release assy hang.

Step 3- Fitting the Dash Slide Bracket to the Column/Dash Substructure...
NOTE- our FOX underdash version is designed to work with the stronger '87-'93 "curved" style drop bracket shown below. If you have one of the earlier brackets that's made from simple flat metal bent in a "U" shape, it will need to be swapped for the later version.
...install the ClutchTamer slide bracket onto the left/forward steering column attachment stud. Hold in place with the 3/8" flanged nut supplied (requires a 9/16" wrench). The tab extending from the side of the slide bracket will sandwich between the hood release assy and it's bracket...

Step 4- Install the ClutchTamer's Hydraulic Cylinder onto the Pedal Bracket...
...place the hydraulic cylinder into position inside the slide bracket.
...secure the cylinder to the clutch pedal bracket with the provided attachment pin and o-ring retainer.

Step 5- Trimming the Length of the Threaded Rod...
...re-install the threaded rod thru the slide bushing and into the cylinder's rod. Bottom it out in the coupler's threads, then secure it in place with the provided jam nut.
...screw the plastic Delay Knob onto the threaded rod until it's threads bottom out, then just slightly more until it is tight enough so that the Delay Knob can be used for turning the cylinder's shaft. At this point, the Delay Knob should seem to be sticking out way too far.
...rotate the Delay Knob counter-clockwise until you can feel the added resistance to rotation when it reaches the end of it's adjustment range. This point is what we call it's "0 Turns" adjustment.
...turn the Delay Knob clockwise to the "2 Turns" adjustment position, then measure the distance between the Dash Bracket's Slide Bushing and the flat area on the Delay Knob. Write down this measurement, this will be the "cut amount" that will be trimmed from the long end of the threaded rod.
...remove the plastic Delay Knob from the threaded rod.
...remove the threaded rod from the cylinder's shaft.
...note that the threaded rod has a groove milled into it appx 1" from one end. DO NOT cut this end of the threaded rod, we call this end the "short" end. Trim the "cut amount" from the "long" end of the threaded rod, take care not to damage the rod's threads.

Ideally, when finished trimming the rod's length, you will end up with a "Delay Gap" that's about 1 thread wide when adjusted to "0 Turns", just like the gap located in the center of the picture below...

Step 6- Assembling the threaded shaft, "Initial Hit Dial", and "Lockup Delay Knob" onto the cylinder...
...remove the cylinder from the clutch pedal bracket
...thread the "long end" of the threaded rod into the cylinder's shaft, then secure it in place with the jam nut.
...thread the "Initial Hit Dial" onto the "short end" of the threaded rod until appx 1-1/4" of the threaded rod sticks out of the flat face of the dial.
...re-install the cylinder/rod assy thru the hole in the dash substructure and thru the Dash Bracket's Slide Bushing.
...re-install the cylinder onto the clutch pedal bracket.
...thread the plastic "Lockup Delay Knob" onto the threaded rod. Tighten it slightly until there is just enough resistance to reliably adjust the "Lockup Delay Knob" without it un-screwing from the threaded rod. With the "Lockup Delay Knob" installed, there should be a small gap between the "Lockup Delay Knob" and the "Slide Bushing" when the Delay is adjusted to "0 Turns".

NOTE- if you need to remove the plastic slide bushing from the dash bracket, it just "snaps" together. Simply slip a small blade under the rear "washer" portion, with a gentle pry it should snap free from the slide bushing. A small set of pliers can be used to "snap" the washer/bushing back together for re-install.

Step 7- Initial Setup & Tuning...
...CLICK HERE to go to our "initial setup & tuning guide


If you have any questions, feel free to e-mail me