Important Notes-

ALWAYS RELEASE THE CLUTCH PEDAL FROM THE STOP WHEN CLUTCH TUNING or LAUNCHING !!! Before you install or test your ClutchTamer, it's very important that you install a clutch pedal stop and verify it's proper function. Using a pedal stop helps ensure a consistent release point, which in turn helps ensure that you get repeatable results. If for some reason you have to change your pedal stop height after you begin the setup process (maybe you find the clutch isn't releasing cleanly which causes a shifting problem), you will need to go back to Step 1 and do the setup process all over again.

DO NOT "PRE-LOAD" YOUR CLUTCH BEFORE LAUNCH!!! It is important to release the clutch from a properly adjusted pedal stop. Many import racers "pre-load" their clutches in an attempt to minimize parts breakage, DO NOT do this when using the ClutchTamer. Pre-loading will result in less pedal travel on the launch, and more pedal travel during shifts. This will result in excessive clutch slip after shifts made using the clutch pedal.

LAUNCH RPM CAN AFFECT YOUR CLUTCH TUNEUP!!! Even without any sort of "centrifugal assist", a typical 10.5" diaphragm style pressure plate can gain around 350lbs of clamp pressure going from 4000rpm to 7000rpm. You can choose any launch rpm you want, but it's a good idea to keep launch rpm consistent if you want consistent results.

CONSIDERATIONS FOR CLUTCH TUNING WHEN USING A SINTERED IRON DISC- it is important to allow plenty of time between test hits for iron disc temperatures to normalize. Basically no "back to back to back" test hits without some cooling time in between. The reason is the fact that the iron friction material actually bites quite a bit harder as temperatures go up. If you have an iron clutch where the "Initial Hit" setting was tuned to a much higher than normal disc temp, that clutch will likely slip way too much during a typical launch. If the engine is running, 5 min of cooling time between hits is usually enough. A non-running engine will need 10-15 min between hits due to less air circulation.

Initial Setup For Your ClutchTamer...

One of the quickest/safest ways to "ballpark" your ClutchTamer's initial hit adjustment is to use what we call the "rolling launch" method. It's also easy on equipment, and not likely to get you in trouble with law enforcement. This method can even be used while rolling down the freeway in 4th gear on the way to the races. Always be sure to find a safe, legal, and consistent location to conduct your test sessions.

Adjustment #1- Initial Clutch Hit...

Above is a composite of "Initial Hit" tests done in 1 turn increments, all with 4-1/2 turns of delay. Clutch "Psi" on the graph indicates hydraulic throwout bearing line pressure.
The graph basically represents an amount of clutch clamp pressure being held back to allow for some clutch slip, then allowed to come in over time.
As you can see, in this case a 1 turn change of the inner "Initial Hit" dial is roughly a 25 psi difference at the throwout bearing.

Step 1- VERY IMPORTANT !!! be sure you have an effective clutch pedal stop in place and adjusted properly before advancing to Step 2.

Step 2- Initially set the "Outer Delay Knob" clockwise to a point where the clutch pedal takes more than 20 seconds to return. This is important as it effectively dials out the delay function, which allows us to concentrate specifically on dialing in a properly firm amount of initial hit.

Step 3- Perform a series of "rolling launches". We usually drive a less travelled backroad in 3rd gear at around 2500, push the clutch pedal against the stop raise rpm to around 4500, then go WOT and watch the tach while quickly releasing the clutch pedal.
...If rpm quickly gets pulled down to match road speed in less than a second, give the clutch a little time to cool, then turn the inner "initial hit" dial 1 or two turns counter-clockwise and repeat Step 3 until it doesn't.
...If rpm holds steady or quickly flares above 4500, give the clutch a little time to cool, then turn the inner initial hit dial 1 or two turns clockwise until rpm gets pulled down between 250-500 rpm in about 1 second. If you have an organic or Kevlar disc, or have a lightweight mini clutch, wait 5 min or so before repeating to protect the clutch from overheat.

Step 4- After the rolling 3rd gear test launches are ballparked, you are ready for a short 20' test launch from a 4500rpm standing start in 1st gear at the track. At this point we are still looking for the clutch to pull the engine down only somewhere around 250-500rpm in about 1 second or 20'. These test launches are only 20'
...If the clutch pulls the engine down less than 250 rpm in 20', abort the run. Give the clutch a little time to cool, then turn the inner dial 1 click clockwise and repeat step 4.
...If the clutch pulls the engine down more than 500 rpm in 20', abort the run. Give the clutch a little time to cool, then turn the inner dial 1 click counter-clockwise and repeat step 4.
...If the clutch pulls the engine down somewhere between 250-500rpm in 20', abort the run and proceed to Step 5.

Step 5- measure/record your setting. The most common method is to measure the gap between the inner "Initial Hit" dial and the inner part of the dash bracket's slide bushing. A small dial caliper works great. The gap you are measuring can be seen in the center of the picture to the right.

Step 6- If for some reason you have to change your pedal stop adjustment, you will need to return to Step 1 and start over.

The basic goal of the "Initial Hit" setting is to match the clutch's hit to the engine's power. When exactly matched, engine rpm will not flare or dip when the pedal is suddenly released, the clutch will slip just enough to keep engine rpm steady. Too much hit, engine rpm will be pulled down too far. Not enough hit, engine rpm will "flare" higher with too much slip.

Adjustment #2- Secondary Clutch Lockup Delay...

Typical delay curves for cylinders manufactured after 3-27-17 when used against a 2800lb diaphragm pressure plate.
These curves represent the heart of a cylinder's typically used range of adjustment.

Turning the outer "Lock-up Delay Knob" basically changes how long the clutch slips after launch and all WOT shifts.

Step 1-...rotate the outer "Lock-up Delay Knob" counter-clockwise until you can feel the added resistance to rotation when it reaches the end of it's adjustment range. This point is what we call the "0 Turns" adjustment.

Step 2-...It is suggested that you begin delay tuning with an initial "Lock-up Delay Knob" setting of "3" turns, simply rotate the outer "Lock-up Delay Knob" clockwise "3" turns from it's initial "0" turns starting point.

Step 3- ...Stage at around 4500 rpm, then make a run thru 1st gear while observing your tach. Have an outside observer watch for tire spin.
...If the engine loses more than 500rpm in 1st gear, rotate the outer "Lock-up Delay Knob" 1 click clockwise, then return to step 3.
...If your engine loses less than 250rpm in 1st gear, give the clutch some time to cool, then rotate the outer "Lock-up Delay Knob" 1 click counter-clockwise, then return to step 3.
...If your tires spin more than a little, try adding a clockwise turn of "Initial Hit". Sometimes a chassis needs to hit the tires just a little harder, which gives weight a little more time to transfer. If more "Initial Hit" makes the tire spin worse, you might have to lower stage rpm (or take a little gear out) to keep from overpowering the tires.

Step 4- Record your outer "Lock-up Delay Knob" setting.

Basically when a properly geared car is launched, we want engine RPM to dip somewhere between 250-500 rpm below the 4500 "staged" RPM at it's lowest point.

NOTE- If you have a data logger and have plenty of clutch capacity to exploit the ClutchTamer's benefits, we recommend a maximum of 0.7 to 1.0 seconds of clutch slip after the high gear shift. If your clutch slips longer than 1 second after WOT shifts, that generally means your initial hit setting for launch is not aggressive enough.

Frequently Asked ClutchTamer Tuning Questions...

Is there a ballpark "initial hit" setting that I can use to get started?
No, there are just too many variables. Even two cars with identical engines and clutch setups, but with different pedal stop adjustments, will require different initial hit settings.

My clutch pedal doesn't have enough time to return all the way up before it's time to shift. Is this a problem?
That's normal, and more noticeable when the clutch has a lot more capacity than the engine. Basically it's because the target window between a "properly firm initial hit" and "clutch lockup" is very narrow, and we are using the ClutchTamer's delay function to widen that window. It's not a bad thing and actually speeds up your wot shifting, as it effectively shortens pedal travel. Because the pedal has not yet returned all the way back to the top, now your foot won't have to waste time pushing the pedal thru that deadband area when you reach your shift point.

Can I use a ClutchTamer with a SoftLoc style clutch?
Yes, you can. The main benefit will be that you will no longer have to compromise your launch to keep your clutch from slipping in high gear.
...If you are shifting using the clutch pedal and your PP has plenty of spring, we recommend that you remove all your counterweights and maximize your base pressure. If your PP doesn't have enough base pressure available to lock up the clutch in high gear on it's own, we prefer to install stiffer springs to achieve high gear clutch lockup, but in a pinch you can add just enough counterweight to get the job done.
...If you are shifting clutchless, we recommend you stick with your existing clutch settings when using the ClutchTamer.

Congrats to Coyote Stock Winner and ClutchTamer user Charlie Booze Jr & his crew, shown here picking up a $3600 check at the NMRA/NMCA SuperBowl event!

If you have any questions, feel free to e-mail me