The terms "traction control", "power management", and "strain gauge shift knobs" are really just hi-tech ways to say power reduction. If they called them what they really are, most racers would only resort to them when there's nothing else left to adjust.
WOT Ignition/Fuel Cut "Clutchless" Shift vs No-Cut WOT Shift Using the Clutch Pedal!!!- these are two completely different approaches to WOT shifts. You might think a clutchless shift will always be quicker, but consider the following...
...... A WOT ignition/fuel cut is about momentarily cutting engine power, for the purpose of reducing engine rpm, to facilitate a WOT clutchless shift. Easy to accomplish with a strain gauge shift knob, making it an obvious solution for "quick shifts". Problem with that line of thinking is that not only was power momentarily cut, but you also wasted a lot of stored inertia energy by using internal engine friction and pumping losses to quickly reduce engine rpm. That "smooth as butter" clutchless WOT ignition cut shift might seem quick, but it comes at a power production cost. Basically, with a cut it takes longer for the engine to produce "X" amount of power, and you always suffer the full amount of rpm loss after the shift that the ratio change predicted.
......A no-cut WOT shift "flare" is the product of turning the engine loose to produce/store energy as quickly as possible, even while the engine is momentarily dis-connected from the transmission. The flare is the product of the engine's rotating assy absorbing energy, and clutch control is the key to harnessing that flare's energy and applying it to the transmission's input shaft at a rate that the chassis can handle. The advantages are that you avoid the double loss of using stored energy to keep the engine spinning during a power cut. Also when you are controlling the clutch's pulldown rate to recover stored energy efficiently, engine rpm does not drop down as far after the shift as the ratio change predicted. So not only does the engine get to keep making power throughout the shift, but average rpm is also raised.
Chapter 01- The Basics of Inertia Management
Chapter 02- Calculating Inertia's Effect on Input Shaft Torque
Chapter 03- Clutch Slip After the Shifts... Good or Bad?
Chapter 04- Heavier Cars LESS Likely To Break Transmissions?
Chapter 05- Understanding The ClutchTamer
Chapter 06- Understanding The Hitmaster
Chapter 07- The Basics of Analyzing Dragstrip Data
Chapter 08- Flywheel Weight- Heavy or Light?
Chapter 09- Choosing a Proper Clutch & Pressure Plate
Chapter 10- The Importance of a Clutch Pedal Stop
Chapter 11- What's the Best Launch RPM?
Chapter 12- Do You Need a 2-Step Rev Limiter?
Chapter 13- Traction Problems- Adjust Shocks, Chassis, or Clutch?
Chapter 14- Are "Clutchless" Shifts Right For You?
Chapter 15- Traction Control- Yes or No?
Chapter 16- Apply ClutchTamer Tech to an Adjustable Clutch?
CHANGING THE GAME ON LAUNCHING YOUR STICK SHIFT CAR!!!